Borobudur – A Gigantic Textbook of Buddhism

Borobudur in B&W on Lumix GX1 ISO160 15mm f7.1 1/400

Built around the same time as Prambanan (or maybe early) during the reign of the Sailendra Dynasty, the Buddhist temple is made up of 6 square bases, topped with 3 circular one with total height of 42 meter (95 feet). As Prambanan, it ‘rediscovered’ in 1814 by Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles after received a report about hill full of many carved stones.  It decorated with 2,672 bas-relief panels (1,460 narrative and 1,212 decorative panels) and 504 Buddha statues.  The bas-reliefs divided by a subject and location into the three realms of Buddhist cosmology: the world of desire, the world of forms and the world of formlessness. While 2,512 bas-reliefs depicting the life of the Buddha, the one of its most intriguing features of Borobudur its 10.5 meter encased hidden base support 160 panels of bas-reliefs.

Buddha statue in one of the half opened stupa looking down from the temple on GX1 ISO160 14mm f8 1/500 0.7EV

Why the relief was ever covered up remains a mystery for Karmawibhangga, the hidden piece of relief wall on the foot of Borobudur, some say it was hidden because some of the 160 panels at the base of Borobudur depict erotic and sadistic scenes unsuitable for a sacred site. But there is a scientific explanation. It is all about Borobudur’s structure and by casted the lowest part of the Borobudur it actually strengthen the building from slanting.

Every panel of Karmawibhangga, provides one complete illustration and depicts series of consequences of cause and effect, past actions and choices, and about causal law of life. The first 117 bas-panels show various actions leading to one and the same result, while the other remaining 43 panels demonstrate the many results that follow one single effect.  The interpretation of these panels is based on Casijan Chepas’s photography taken in 1890 when the encasement base of the Borobudur was dissembled and reveals the hidden foot. Today, only 3 bas-panels at southeast corner part of hidden foot revealed and visible for visitors.

Part of hidden bas-panels showing an activities against Buddhism teaching (L-R) taking drug/opium, homosexual
& drunk on Lumix GX1 ISO160 14mm f6.3 1/250 -0.3EV

The gigantic monument without legend feels tasteless. Legend is told that the architect who built Borobudur, Gunadharma done it in a single day and laid a curse on anyone who dared ascend his holy shrine. There is a mountain in south of Borobudur looks very much like the profile of a man and from Javanese folk tales that the ridge depicts Gunadharma, who is believed to keep watch over his creation through the ages.

While, a second legend is related to descendant of Mataram Kingdom, Prince Monconagoo, a defiant rebellions crown prince of the Jogjakarta Sultanate. In 1758, he set out to visit the “mountain of a thousand statues” against the advice of a prophecy that royalty who climbed the mountain would die. When he did not return, the king sent his men to bring back the wayward son. Upon returning to palace, he was found vomiting blood and soon after died.

Borobudur on Lumix GX1 ISO160 14mm f8 1/200 0.3EV

Entrance fee for foreigner is IDR190,000, child IDR95,000 and parking fee at IDR5,000. While for better understand of Borobudur and it associated with other religion, local tour guide can be hired at IDR75,000. And if you have kid any who lazy to walk, you can hire a potter at IDR75,000 to carrier around.