Candi Pawon & Mendut - Spiritual Portal To The Imposing Borobudur Temple

Pawon and Mendut are believed closely related with Borobudur and what make more interesting… the three temples are sitting on a straight line from north to south.

The debate on Candi Pawon, a Buddhist shrine located 1.5km from Borobudur on the main purpose is still unclear and uncertain. There are two story related to Pawon. In Javanese language, Pawon literally means "kitchen”, derived from the root word awu or dust and probably built as a tomb that houses the dust of cremated king. But other local people believed Pawon is not a grave but as a place to keep King Indra’s weapon namely Vajranala. 

Candi Pawon

While, Candi Mendut is the oldest of the three temples thought to have acted as a way-point on the road to Borobudur. There is a huge Banyan tree at the corner of the temple compound, providing a good shade to visitors. It was first discovered in 1834 and holds the distinction of being the first ancient monument in the whole of Indonesia to be restored that stated in 1897.

Mendut view from the big Banyan tree on Lumix GX1 ISO160 14mm f8 1/500 -0.3EV

There is a mutual religious relationship between the three temples. Today, during the full moon in May or June, Buddhists in Indonesia observe Vesak annual ritual by walking from Mendut passing through Pawon and ends at Borobudur.

There is no entrance fee for Pawon but IDR3,000 will be imposed for Mendut.

Visit Malaysia 2014 - Colmar Tropicale, Bukit Tinggi Pahang

Lumix GX1 ISO400 14mm f5 1/200

Colmar Tropicale is a French-themed resort hotel located in Berjaya Hills Resort, Bukit Tinggi, Pahang, Malaysia. Located 2,600 feet above sea level surrounding by natural forestland. The development is inspired by the medieval French village town named Colmar located in Alsace, France, with some building elements taken from ancient surrounding villages like Riquewihr, Turckheim and Kaysersberg.

Borobudur – A Gigantic Textbook of Buddhism

Borobudur in B&W on Lumix GX1 ISO160 15mm f7.1 1/400

Built around the same time as Prambanan (or maybe early) during the reign of the Sailendra Dynasty, the Buddhist temple is made up of 6 square bases, topped with 3 circular one with total height of 42 meter (95 feet). As Prambanan, it ‘rediscovered’ in 1814 by Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles after received a report about hill full of many carved stones.  It decorated with 2,672 bas-relief panels (1,460 narrative and 1,212 decorative panels) and 504 Buddha statues.  The bas-reliefs divided by a subject and location into the three realms of Buddhist cosmology: the world of desire, the world of forms and the world of formlessness. While 2,512 bas-reliefs depicting the life of the Buddha, the one of its most intriguing features of Borobudur its 10.5 meter encased hidden base support 160 panels of bas-reliefs.

Buddha statue in one of the half opened stupa looking down from the temple on GX1 ISO160 14mm f8 1/500 0.7EV

Why the relief was ever covered up remains a mystery for Karmawibhangga, the hidden piece of relief wall on the foot of Borobudur, some say it was hidden because some of the 160 panels at the base of Borobudur depict erotic and sadistic scenes unsuitable for a sacred site. But there is a scientific explanation. It is all about Borobudur’s structure and by casted the lowest part of the Borobudur it actually strengthen the building from slanting.

Every panel of Karmawibhangga, provides one complete illustration and depicts series of consequences of cause and effect, past actions and choices, and about causal law of life. The first 117 bas-panels show various actions leading to one and the same result, while the other remaining 43 panels demonstrate the many results that follow one single effect.  The interpretation of these panels is based on Casijan Chepas’s photography taken in 1890 when the encasement base of the Borobudur was dissembled and reveals the hidden foot. Today, only 3 bas-panels at southeast corner part of hidden foot revealed and visible for visitors.

Part of hidden bas-panels showing an activities against Buddhism teaching (L-R) taking drug/opium, homosexual
& drunk on Lumix GX1 ISO160 14mm f6.3 1/250 -0.3EV

The gigantic monument without legend feels tasteless. Legend is told that the architect who built Borobudur, Gunadharma done it in a single day and laid a curse on anyone who dared ascend his holy shrine. There is a mountain in south of Borobudur looks very much like the profile of a man and from Javanese folk tales that the ridge depicts Gunadharma, who is believed to keep watch over his creation through the ages.

While, a second legend is related to descendant of Mataram Kingdom, Prince Monconagoo, a defiant rebellions crown prince of the Jogjakarta Sultanate. In 1758, he set out to visit the “mountain of a thousand statues” against the advice of a prophecy that royalty who climbed the mountain would die. When he did not return, the king sent his men to bring back the wayward son. Upon returning to palace, he was found vomiting blood and soon after died.

Borobudur on Lumix GX1 ISO160 14mm f8 1/200 0.3EV

Entrance fee for foreigner is IDR190,000, child IDR95,000 and parking fee at IDR5,000. While for better understand of Borobudur and it associated with other religion, local tour guide can be hired at IDR75,000. And if you have kid any who lazy to walk, you can hire a potter at IDR75,000 to carrier around.

Kraton Ratu Boko : Exotic Peaceful Hill Place of Meditation

The main gate of Kraton Ratu Boko on Lumix GX1 ISO1600 14mm f3.5 1/40 2EV

Standing majestically on a hillside plateau overlooking Prambanan temple and mystical Mount Merapi as its backdrop, Kraton Ratu Boko ruins are the remnants from glorious 8^th century of Sailendra dynasty. Rakai Panangkaran, a descendant of the Sailendra dynasty of Ancient Mataram, built it as a spiritual dwelling abode and meditation place after he relinquished the throne. It was then tradition among Maratam ancient kingdoms for ageing kings to retire in order to find spiritual peace and concentrate on religious matters.

These temple complexes also serve as a home to Buddhist monks and nuns, characterised by the cave via Wadon Cave and Lanang Cave. This cave is a place for prays separate from the monks and nuns meditation. The site takes its name from the legendary King Boko, one of the main characters in famous folk legend of Rara Jonggrang. This folklore links the Kraton Ratu Boko with the Durga statue in the Prambanan temple, and with the Sewu temples, or the Thousand Temples.  

Entrance fees before 3pm is IDR143,000 and if enter after 3pm for sunset is IDR90,000.

Plaosan Temple: Juxtaposition of Hinduism and Buddhism

Candi Plaosan Lor (North) in silhouette on Lumix GX1 ISO160, 14mm f9, 1/50 & -0.3EV

Plaosan temple, a hidden gem that stands 1 km away from the world-renowned Prambanan temple, was believed as a symbol of love.  While UNESCO has recognized Prambanan’s cultural significance, Plaosan Temple is a forgotten testament to the glory of the Maratam kingdom. It’s deserted and tourists are rarely seen. Close proximity, however, is no guarantee of fame.

Plaosan was built by Sri Maharaja Rakai Pikatan of Sanjaya dynasty for an offering to his consort, Pramodhawardani, a Buddhist from the Sailendra kingdom. Other believed that the ‘mixed-marriage’ was the political trick to conquer one and other kingdom. In fact, after the ‘marriage period’ there was a clash between the Sanjaya Hindu kingdom and Sailendra Buddhist kingdom.

Ruins of Candi Plaosan Lor at Bugisan Village on on Lumix GX1 ISO160, 14mm f9 & 1/25

Plaosan, a twin temple named Candi Plaosan Lor and Candi Plaosan Kidul at a glance looks like a Hindu temple, but closer examination reveals its striking Buddhist features.The soaring structures of the temples of Plaosan is typical of Hindu construction, while the stupas are topped at the top evoke a Buddhist design ethos.

Ruins of Candi Plaosan Lor at Bugisan Village on on Lumix GX1 ISO160, 14mm f4.5 & 1/25 convent to B&W

The entrance fee to Plaosan Complex is free but any donation is welcome. But the local people will charged IRD5,000 for the parking fee. The north (Lor) and south (Kidul) Plaosan temple separated by the road and paddy field but the condition of Plaosan Kidul is more bad than the north which most of the ruins still covered by earth.

Prambanan – A Big Puzzle Blocks & Legend of Slender Virgin

From L - R : Candi Angsa (front), Candi Brahma (back), Candi Nandi (front) & Candi Shiva (back)
on Lumix GX1 ISO160, 14mm f4.5 & 1/125 with presets to vivid photo style.

Listed under UNESCO World Heritage No. 642, the temple built around 9^th Century by Javanese Hindu Sanjaya Dynasty’s, Prambanan is the answer to Buddhist Sailendra Dynasty’s Borobudur temple, 50km away from at Magelang before collapsed during volcano eruption and earthquake in the 16^th century. The Javanese locals surrounding villages aware of the temple’s existence before it officially declare ‘rediscovery’ by Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, which came upon the temples by chance.

There are 240 temples standing during their golden age, but 222 from 224 smaller temples (Pervara Temple) located at the outside main yard are piles of big rubbles and ruin of stones around Prambanan. During the process of restoration and reconstruction, the archeologists, engineers and architects had no plans or diagrams of the temple to work with, therefore each block of stone was painstakingly together through a trial and error and it may take a century or more for restoration...each block of stone is just like a puzzle piece.

From L - R : Candi Vishnu, Candi Shiva & Candi Brahma on Lumix GX1 ISO160, 14mm f4
& 1/125 with presets to vivid photo style.

With the statues and ruins of Prambanan, rise a legend and fairytales of Putri Lara Jonggrang…a war, love and a broken heart story.

One upon a time, there are two Hindu kingdoms in Java, knew as Pengging and Boko. The wealthy Pengging kingdom ruled by a wise king named Prabu Damar Moyo while Boko by Prabu Boko, which basically interested in beating the crap and taking over the entire land. Boko then declares war on Pengging and won the battle. End of Part One – War Is Over.

Humiliated and seeking revenge for his kingdom’s defeat, Damar sends his son named Bandung over to Boko and assassinated King of Boko. End of Part Two – Assassination of King Boko.

(The music with love theme plays as background). After the successful assassinated King Boko, Bandung stumbled then lays his eyes with Putri Lara Jonggrang, a beautiful young daughter of King Boko (the love music theme continue) and immediately falls in love with her and proposes Loro Jonggrang to be his wife. End of Part Three – fall in love at first sight.

Seeing Bandung was desperate for her love, Lara Jonggrang decides to play Bandung up and stuck with two deals with the lovesick man. “Get into a well for me”…said Lara Jonggrang, which Bandung willingly did. Then she instructed the royal monster to fill the well with big stones to block Bandung’s entry out. But hero always has a way out. He managed to escape via some meditating. End of Part Four – Big Escape.

“Build me 1,000 temples in 1 night!” said Lara Jonggrang on her last wish. “If you success to complete it before dawn breaks, I will marry you, dude”. Not wanting to lose out on a bet with her father killer, Lara Jonggrang then sought the help from women form her land and told them to pound rice and burning dried paddy stalks to simulate the rising of morning sun. Crows were fooled and started crowing, the Bandung’s spirit of supernatural helpers fled back into the ground while doing the thousandth temple. End of Part Five – Mission Unaccomplished.

From L - R : Apit, Brahma, Angsa, Shiva, Nandi, Vishnu, Pervara Temple, Apit & Garuda on Lumix GX1
ISO160, 23mm f20, 1/6 & 0.3EV with AutoWB

“Hey Lara Jonggrang, the temples are all here but one, and you shall be the one thousandth!” curse Bandung to gorgeous princes standing before his eyes. Before Lara Jonggrang knew what hit her, she has been turned into a stone statue, and the princess is the image of Durga and still stands today in the north cell of Candi Shiwa at Prambanan. The unfinished thousandth temple created by the spirit of supernatural becomes the Candi Sewu means “thousands” in Javanese. The End.

 Image of Durga or Lara Jonggrang inside one of Candi Shiva's chamber on Lumix GX1
ISO1600, 14mm f3.5 & 1/8 convert to B&W.

Entrance Fee IDR171,000 (Foreigner), Child IDR85,000 and parking fee IDR5,000. Local tour guide (for better understand) IDR75,000. Within the Prambanan Archaeological Park there are another three candi - Lumbung, Bubrah and Sewu (the 1,000th temple of Lara Jonggrang legend).

Mystical Journey of Yogyakarta - The Itinerary

Visiting Yogyakarta without understands the history of the Kraton Yogyakarta, how it establishes and how it relates to each element just like wasting a good time. The history of the Yogyakarta is not portrayed with magnificent monumental buildings. Yogyakarta is a city that has unique characteristics and its structure have a symbolic-philosophical meaning that based on the imaginary line, which Jogja’s people believed that formed a straight line of Mount Merapi – Tugu Jogja – Kraton – Panggung Krapyak – South Sea, sacred axis of Yogyakarta.  These 5 places that laid on the axis form an iconic places of Yogyakarta. 

This is a mystical journey of Yogyakarta.

DAY 1. ARRIVAL YOGYAKARTA – PRAMBANAN, SEWU, PALOSAN - ISTANA RATU BOKO FOR SUNSET

Arrival at Adisucipto International Airport

Lunch at Rumah Makan Padang Singgalang Jaya (Terminal 1)

Site 1 - Prambanan Temple

Site 2 - Sewu Temple cancelled due to bad weather

Site 3 - Palosan Temple

Site 4 - Istana Ratu Boko for sunset no sunset due to bad weather 

Dinner at Rumah Makan Sendang Ayu, Jl Raya Yogya-Solo, KM15,  Kalasan, Yogyakarta 55571.

Check-in to hotel. Grage Ramayana Hotel

DAY 2. BOROBUDUR - AGRO TOUR VILLAGE - MT. MERAPI 

Breakfast at hotel.

Site 1 - Borobudur Temple

Site 2 - Pawon and Mendut Temples

Site 3 - Agro Tourism Village Kampung Gadung, Desa Bangunkerto Kecamatan Turi Kabupaten Sleman for salak pondoh

Lunch at Rumah Makan Bale Kambang, Jl Raya Borobudur, KM2.8, Mungkid Magelang

Site 4 - Mt. Merapi - Kg Kinahrejo + Mt. Merapi Adventure Tour

Dinner at JeJamuran Restro, Jl Niron, Pandowoharjo, Sleman, Yogyakarta  55512.

Transfer to Hotel. 

Merapi Jeep Adventure - Let's pump up the adrenaline through the countryside road of former 2010 eruption

DAY 3. CITY TOUR JOGJA – PARANGKUSUMO SAND DUNES - PARANGTRITIS BEACH

Breakfast at hotel

Special Tour: Visit Pabrik Cerutu Taru Martani, Jalan Kompil Bambang Suprapto (cigar)

Site 1–  Kraton Yogyakarta (Sultan Palace)

Site 2 - Taman Sari (Water Castle) + Alun-alun Kidul

Site 3 - Pasar Burung Ngasem (Pasty Jogjakarta, Jl Bantul)

Site 4 – Panggung Krapyak

Site 5 – Kotagede + Masjid Mataram + Rumah Joglo + Alun-alun Cokroyudan (Between Two Gate) + Coklat Monggo

Lunch at Sekar Kedhaton, Jl Tegal Gendu, 28 Kotagede, Yogyakarta 55173.

Site 6 – Parangkusumo Sand Dune (Gumuk Pasir Parangkusumo)

Site 7 – Parangtritis Beach 

Dinner at Angkringan Lik Man, Jl. Wongso Dirjan – Kopi Joss & Nasi Kucing

Free & Easy at Jalan Malioboro

In front of Taru Martani cigar factory

DAY 4. YOGYAKARTA DEPARTURE 

Breakfast at hotel

Last Call to

(1) Tugu Yogyakarta

(2) Beringharjo Traditional Market

(3) Exploring Kilometer Nol - Fort Vredeburg, Monumen 1 Maret etc. + posting post card to Malaysia

Back to hotel and Check-out

Lunch at Ayam Goreng Suharti, Jl Laksda Adisucipto, No 23, Yogyakarta

Transfer to Adisucipto International Airport. Airport Tax IDR100,000 per pax.

Gudeg at Jalan Sosrowijayan